Finally- the STEPS!

May 11, 2016

Finally- the STEPS!

My new Amelia Dress- yay!

The moment you've been waiting for....the quick-sew version of two amazing dresses: Amelia by Green Bee Patterns and Moneta by Collette Patterns!

**Please tag me in Instagram to show me your creations! @ChickenBootsUSA **

I'm going to list the steps I've been tempting you with all month close to the top of this post. But I have some teacher-y details below them. (Especially a bit more on cutting Amelia on the bias that is quite important).

*These instructions do not replace the detailed instructions with your pattern. I do not think they are 'better'. Nor are they the only way to sew the garment.

*These are provided as a way to speed up the process assuming you know how to do the step in question. You probably do not need instructions on how to sew shoulder seams together, or how to attach a skirt to a bodice, or need to remember to under-stitch your facing after it's attached. But if you do, I've listed the original step number from the actual pattern for your reference.

*These instructions are here to empower you to become a more intuitive seamster. Faster isn't better. But I do know that finishing a project is always key to feeling successful. We all have our favorite seam and hem finishes and methods we prefer to set in a sleeve or attach a zipper. But if you are unsure- refer to the steps. Each of these patterns explains the process thoroughly and accurately!

Amelia Steps 

(The original step from the pattern is listed at the end of each of my steps)
  • First: Make sure you've transferred all markings, clipped to the dots on the Center Front (CF) Neck at the 'V' and on the bodice side seams of both Fronts and Backs marking the armhole and stay stitched these areas.
  • Seam allowances are 1/2"
  • Do not pull on your seams while sewing- they will be quite stretchy!
  • And they're right...your iron is your best friend!
  1. Sew Darts, CF seam of Bodice, Fronts to Backs at side seams and shoulders. (Steps 3, 4, 5 and 7).
  2. Hem Sleeve opening. (Step 6).
  3. CF Skirt seam, Pockets to side seams, Fronts and Backs together at side seams an around pockets. (Steps 8, 9, 10, 11, 12 on page 1 <).
  4. Prepare and attach neck facing to neck. (Steps 13, 14, 15)
  5. Sew Center Back (CB) seam to zipper opening. Attach zipper. (Steps 16 - 23).
  6. Hem Skirt and add any finishing touches (Steps 24, 25).


Moneta Steps (version 2 or 3) 

(The original step from the pattern is listed at the end of each of my steps):
  • First: Make sure you've transferred all markings
  • Seam allowances are 3/8"
  • Read about sewing with knits if this is your first time
  • Try not to cut out your knit until you are almost ready to sew. The cut edges of some knits like to curl.
  1. Sew Shoulder Seams (Step 1 Pg. 18 Top).
  2. Sew Sleeves to Armholes then sew Underarm/Side Seams. (Step 1 - 4 Pg. 18 & 19 and Steps 1 - 3 Pg. 19 middle.)
  3. Sew Pockets to Skirt Side Seams (Steps 1- 3 bottom of Pg. 23 - 24).
  4. Sew Skirt Side Seams and around Pockets (Steps 1 -2 Pg. 25).
  5. Gather Front and Back Skirts (I do not use clear elastic as suggested for this step, if you would like to do so, refer to Steps 1- 4 Pg. 26).
  6. Sew Skirt to Bodice (Steps 1- 2 bottom of Pg. 28 - 29).
  7. Hem Sleeves (Steps 1 - 2 Pg. 19), Neckline (Steps 1 Top of Pg. 20), and Skirt (Step 1 Pg. 29).


 Teacher-y Bits : : Amelia Dress

I'm starting with this one first myself. I've picked a bird print from Cotton+Steel. The bias will affect the look as the birds run diagonal on the fabric and once I cut it on the bias- they won't! If you have a directional print-do not cut it with the fabric on the fold. You may get a result you're not pleased with- the direction of the print will be 90 degrees different from each other. Cut your pieces one at a time (don't forget to the flip the pattern piece too) and lay the left next to the right before cutting to check how the print will look  **draw on the pattern paper if you need to, the suggested layout pictured in the envelope will not prevent this.**

Otherwise you get this:

Back Bodice pieces cut from the fabric folded in two layers. Cut in a single layer to prevent this. 

(Note: I am making a few mods to my Amelia: I'm scooping the back neck because I have trouble unzipping/zipping it, I've deepened the pockets, and I'm cut the skirt on the straight grain so I can tell you how well that works, and I am adding a bit of pleating to the skirt because I LOVE PLEATS).

Another note: you're going to think this is crazy, but you do not need serging/overlocking, french seams, zig zags- NOTHING- as a seam finish when you cut all the pieces on the bias. The fabric stays put and does not unravel. If you don't believe me just ask and I'll show you the inside of one of my washed Amelias. I do topstitch the seam because I like the look of it and that does add comforting stability. Why do I do this? It makes the seams less bulky. That's all. And I like it. What the heck, here's proof:

This Amelia has been washed several times. You're looking at the armhole on the left and the CF seam on the right. (To be specific, this is the inside of the Left Front). It really doesn't look much different than my new Amelia I haven't worn yet.


Armhole/Side Seam treatment.

I hem the armhole and side seam. I know it sounds strange. Sort of like a flat-felled seam. I start at the waist, go up around the armhole and back down to the waist. It is a very narrow fold but if I go slow I catch it all.

For the remainder of all my seams, I top-stitch them. I love top-stitching!

Teacher-y Bits : : Moneta Dress

I don't have much to say about sewing this dress. It goes very fast! If you do not have a serger for seams or cover-stitching, refer to the directions (Pg. 4 - 5) and other resources for sewing with knits. 

My mods: I scooped the Center Front Neck 2" lower, and made the pockets bigger.

I'm not going go over Moneta as in depth as I have Amelia in this post but I will next week. I'll be back on my birthday with my new Moneta, some photos of sewing it and any tips I come up with. I hope to hear from you!

**Please tag me in Instagram to show me your creations! @ChickenBootsUSA **







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